Introduction to Landscape Astrophotography in So Ill: Part 1, Section 2 of 6

 Gear

Image above: "How not to do it", or "lessons in making a checklist"

Photographers can be notorious for their addictions to and fascination with gear.  We will discuss a few must-have items and then some other items that might be beneficial.

Camera

Everyone's a photographer until...   
Image by Sergio Ochoa from Pixabay 

It goes without saying that you will need a camera to photograph the night sky.  Or anything for that matter.  In the case of landscape astrophotography, a camera with manual focus and the ability to manually control settings such as shutter speed and ISO are pretty much mandatory.  This knocks most point-and-shoot cameras out of the game, but still leaves lots of options.  Most modern DSLR and mirrorless cameras will work.  So, too, will many Smartphones made in the last 5 or more years (hint: look for "Pro" mode on Samsung).  We can't possibly provide an exhaustive list of camera models with manual settings, so you'll have to verify this by looking it up online if you have any doubts.

Tripod

Image by tommy pixel from Pixabay 

Sure, you could prop your camera up on a bridge railing using expensive filters like I did in the picture I shared earlier, but it surely isn't a great approach.  We will be taking exposures lasting upwards of 30 seconds, so we need a way to keep the camera perfectly still, even in the elements.  A solid tripod is the best solution.  Whatever tripod you already have access to will work for the field trip.  If you get serious about astrophotography, you'll want to make sure that you have a very sturdy tripod to reduce any wiggle, even in wind.  If your tripod has a hook on the center column, hanging a backpack or other weight from the hook can also add stability.  Making the tripod legs shorter, spreading them wider, or lowering the center column can also help improve stability.

There are some other options out there like beanbags, Platypods, etc.  They have their niche uses, but we don't want to spend all night on our bellies.

Most dedicated cameras will have a way to mount the camera to the tripod (but don't forget the quick-release plate if your tripod requires one!).  That isn't true for phones. If you intend to use a phone, make sure you get an adapter to attach it to the tripod.  They are relatively inexpensive and usually universal for different phone models. 

Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay 

Between the tripod and the camera will often be the tripod "head".  These come in various configurations including ballheads (seen in the B&W picture above), geared heads, pan/tilt heads, etc.  They each have their purposes, and opinions on the best type vary.  The important point here is that the tripod should have some way to hinge and point the camera toward the scene that you are trying to capture.

Helpful (but not mandatory) gear

Remote release/intervalometer - A remote release can help separate you from your camera, reducing camera shake that would result from you pushing the shutter button.  You can also reduce camera shake by using the 5-10 second shutter delay/timer if your camera has one built-in (many do).  An intervalometer can be programmed to take multiple shots of specified lengths at specified intervals.  I often use one so that I can set up a shot, hit start, and then lie down for 5 minutes while the camera does its thing.  Some higher-end cameras will have this built-in (maybe called a timelapse function).

Extra batteries - Long exposures eat batteries. You don't want to be out in the middle of the night with a dead battery when that perfect moment happens.  Try to carry at least one spare or be very mindful to conserve the battery if you only have one.  If you find that you are constantly running out of battery, even with spares, consider a dummy battery and external power pack.  I have also been able to plug my Sony cameras into an external battery pack (like for phones) directly through the charging port, but I can't promise that this works for all cameras.

Scene lighting - It's night and you've gone to a dark-sky area.  It's going to be dark.  Shining a light on the foreground is one way to gain detail in what would otherwise be a black landscape.  There are several other ways to get details in the foreground, but lights can be handy for this.  Light sources can range from a candle (very subtle) to a spotlight (for long-distance lighting).  One that you may already have with you would be a...

Headlamp - One of these can be very handy for light painting, finding your keys in the grass, hiking to/from the location, etc.  That said, we must ask that you use it sparingly, and PLEASE be mindful of your light and how it impacts others.  If you are photographing with others, don't ruin their shots with your light.  Don't ruin their night vision with your light.  You'd be surprised how much you can see after your eyes adjust to 10-20 minutes without artificial lighting.  Take the time to practice manipulating your camera with your eyes closed at home to learn where all the buttons are, and you won't even need to see the camera to work it at night.  Also, red headlamps are preferred because they won't impact night vision, (but they still will impact other's photos). 

Phone/notebook - Useful for checklists, mapping, planning, aligning the Milky Way, taking notes on exposures, and safety.  While I'm thinking of taking notes, one trick I often use to "bookmark" sequences of shots is to take a shot of me pointing a light at the lens or holding my hand in front of it.  When I'm sorting files later, I know those are stopping/starting points.

Appropriate outdoor/safety gear - We won't launch into a course about outdoor gear, but we will remind you to be smart and pack appropriate gear for a safe and comfortable night in the outdoors.  There won't be anyone else out there if you have trouble and you may not have cell service.

Comfort supplies - You may be out for a while, so make sure you're comfy.  You may want to bring items like a chair, dry mat for gear, bug spray, Thermacell, snacks, TP (with a way to pack it out), etc.  

Lens warmer - This battery-powered wristband goes around your lens and keeps it warmed up to reduce the formation of dew/frost on the glass. Useful when the temperature is forecasted to drop below the dewpoint overnight, which likely won't come into play for our summer session.  While we're on the topic of lens fogging, make sure to keep your lens and camera acclimated to the outside temperature before shooting.  If you have it in the chilly A/C of your car and then take it out into the steamy summer air, it will fog up.  Put the camera in a sealed bag in your trunk before leaving and don't bring it into the cab of the car while driving.

Advanced topic: Tracking mounts -  Here's the short version.  The earth is spinning.  That makes it look like the stars are moving and subsequently leads to stars being recorded as trails instead of spots as we lengthen exposure times.  If we want the stars to be dots, we have to limit the exposure time, which limits the amount of light we can collect.  We end up starved for light (detail).  Tracking mounts spin the camera in the opposite direction of Earth at roughly the same speed so that we can take longer exposures and maintain spot stars.  That allows us to gather more light for more detail or shoot with camera/lens settings that result in higher image quality.  A drawback is that the foreground will be a blur due to the camera motion, so a separate exposure is needed for the foreground and they have to be blended together using software.  If you have a tracker and want to use it, I suggest you try to work with Grant in the field.  I have one and understand the basics, but have far less experience with it.

Advanced topic: Light pollution filters - these can help reduce the impact of sodium and mercury-vapor lights.  A few things to keep in mind.  First, those types of lights are becoming way less common in favor of LED lamps.  Second, they will slightly decrease how much overall light gets to the lens and light is often at a premium during astro.  Third, much of the effect can otherwise be achieved through editing techniques.  I (John) had one early on.  Then it broke while I was out shooting one night.  After I edited the images that I took after it broke, I decided I didn't need to spend the money on another one any time soon and I still haven't.  Maybe one day, but it's no longer a high-priority item for me.

Definitely an advanced topic: Astro-modified cameras - Essentially you (or someone you pay to do it) remove a filter from your sensor.  Doing so will allow it to capture more light in specific wavelengths of light commonly emitted by celestial bodies.  You'll get more colorful nebulae and brighter stars.  But, you'll need to take extra steps if you want to shoot with that camera during daylight.  Additionally, camera sensors can be set up with cooling mechanisms to reduce noise in the images.  These are expensive options for those who really want to primarily focus on astrophotography. Grant has one, so ask him about this if you're interested in it.

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